In 2006, Hispanics accounted for a quarter of the more than one million residents in Orange County. That’s nearly 100,000 more than were counted in 2000. Lazaro Gonzalez includes himself among the newly arrived. And among the swelling numbers of his ethnic brethren, he saw opportunity.
So, after coming to Orlando in 2004 from his longtime home in New Jersey, the Cuban native and his Dominican-born wife, Kenia, opened It’s a Grind coffee shop in Altamonte Springs. But what they really wanted to do was run a Latin restaurant closer to their home in Stoneybrook.
Encouraged by friends and members of their church, their dream became a reality last month with the opening of Rice and Beans Cocina Latina in the Waterford Towers shopping center. Still employed by Continental Airlines, where he worked while in New Jersey, Gonzalez leaves most of the day-to-day restaurant business to Kenia.
And she runs a tight Cocina Latina (Latin kitchen). Each day the restaurant, which offers sit-down or cafeteria-style service, provides a banquet of authentic Cuban, Dominican and Puerto Rican fare, featuring the family recipes of both he and his wife’s youth. And, in addition to the side dishes highlighted in the restaurant’s name, there is plenty of deliciously prepared meat to choose from to assemble your own lunch or dinner special — for $6.89.
There is Pollo al Horno (baked chicken), Carne Guisada (beef stew), Pernil (roasted pork) and much more. The special also comes with rice, beans, sweet plantains and tossed salad. “Nobody leaves here hungry,” said Gonzalez, pointing to the sumptuous combination of authentic seasonings and quality products. “I’m buying the same thing for the restaurant that I use at home, just buying it on a larger scale,” he said.
Then there are mofongos — Puerto Rico’s signature dish of mashed plantains into which a combination of seafood, meat or vegetables is added — as well as sandwiches, soups and empanadas of all flavors. Most entrees ring up for less than $10. “We’re cooking exactly what you would find in our home countries,” he said. “What you see here is what my mom would make every day.”
Gonzalez also carries on the legacy of his coffee shop with a rich selection of caffeine- infused brews, along with natural juices and tropical shakes featuring papaya, mango and pineapple. “This is a restaurant where you can have lunch or dinner in a nice environment with reasonable prices,” he said.
And there is a Latin-style breakfast too with toasted Cuban bread or Americanstyle ham and eggs. Everything is prepared fresh daily in a huge kitchen that takes up half the restaurant space. All staff members are bilingual, adding to the Caribbean experience, which seems to be a popular choice for dining.
“The first day was packed, and that’s with no advertising. And it just keeps going,” he said. “People want more variety than what a chain or fast-food restaurant can offer.” And you can find more genuine Caribbean cuisine at another new restaurant down the street. Tucked away in the Alafaya Business Center, just north of Curry Ford Road, is El Mangood Restaurant and Grill.
According to legend, the name comes from the unsolicited praise by an American on a visit to a Dominican eatery of mouth-watering renown, who exclaimed after the first bite, “Man, this is good.” In truth, however, the appellation is derived from mangu, a a traditional plantain dish from the Dominican Republic.
But either explanation proves accurate — and delicious. This pricier, more elaborate menu specializes in seafood dishes with a Latin twist such as Red Snapper Relleno de Mariscos (red snapper stuffed with seafood, $25), Pechuga con Camarones (chicken breast stuffed with shrimp, $15.95), Mofongo Relleno (stuffed with octopus, $17.50 or king crab, $16.50), and Paella Valenciana with an assortment of seafood (one person, $19.95).
There are also traditional Latin dishes like Carnita Frita (marinated pork, $9.95), Churrasco (12-ounce, $16), Pata de Cordero (lamb feet stew, $12.95) and Chicharrones (fried chicken, $9.95). In addition, a $4.95 lunch special, served weekdays before 4 p.m., includes a quarter chicken, rice, beans and sweet plantain.
General Manager Rafael Adames explained that the restaurant strives for quality food with consistently expert preparation. This goal is made easier by the main chefs in the kitchen, who also share a life together, Alejandro and Juana Taveras. “Every customer will get the same dish, no matter who is doing the cooking,” he said.
The influences for the menu originate from the Caribbean, with a touch of the Mediterranean. “The secret is in the ingredients,” Adames said. “And if it’s not on the menu, we’ll make it for you on request.” Beer, wine and sangria are available, as well as juices and sodas.
El Mangood Restaurant and Grill, 448 S. Alafaya Trail, 407-482-8810 Rice & Beans Cocina Latina, 504 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-380-9962
